This restaurant, close to New Haven's Art Center, was designed to be theatrical, a place where surprises occur with every visit. It offers nostalgic memories of glorious places long lost, like classy New York bars, steam ships, or railroad stations. Comfortable too, its banquettes swirl into cozy round booths, making it unusually quiet for a restaurant of its size. Care was taken to use every square inch as profitably as possible, without undue cramping, and traffic flow was engineered to ease the way of both visitors and staff.

Lighting is neon on dimmers, an invention that, to our knowledge, had never been used before in a public place. The hues of pinks and oranges are especially well suited to dining, not unlike candlelight. In the windows neon is bent into a cityscape announcing the presence of the restaurant. Inside it is also used behind the bar and in the ceiling, making for excitement.

Moldings, mirrors, and column-like forms decorate both dining room and bar. Special features include "swallow-tail" swinging doors to the bar and pivoting glass panels between bar and dining room, which allow clientele to see through late at night when cabaret acts perform. The vast bar, made of walnut and cherry, is shaped into touchable curves. It folds behind a corner that emanates rays of stamped metal ceiling panels. These reflect the neon and crystal patterns throughout the space.

With its spirit of fun and light, the restaurant draws crowds, awing some and pleasing all. It is a place to see and in which to be seen. Best of all, it is a great place to eat.

Photography © Norman McGrath